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Sector

Subcontracting for luxury, watchmaking and jewellery

Micro-engineering, metal parts, engraving, polishing and finishing: find workshops able to meet the exacting standards of luxury, from watchmaking to leather goods.

In luxury, a metal part counts as much for what you see as for what you measure. A watch middle case, a belt buckle, a bag clasp, a jewellery mount or a perfume bottle cap must hold tight tolerances, but also have an impeccable surface finish: a cosmetic defect that escapes metrology is enough to get a part rejected.

These requirements carry through to subcontractors: micro-engineering and bar turning for movements and small parts, case machining, fine cutting, lost-wax casting for jewellery and above all finishing: polishing, satin finishing, blasting, engraving, electroplating or PVD coatings. The Jura arc for watchmaking, the Arve valley for bar turning and the Paris region (Île-de-France) for jewellery structure this ecosystem in France.

This page sets out the sector’s requirements, typical parts and the precautions to take. Because models not yet on the market are sensitive, confidentiality is central to any request, as the guide to drawing confidentiality and NDAs explains.

Sector requirements

Standards, regulations and practices that buyers expect from their subcontractors.

01

Appearance and surface finish

A visible defect is a quality defect: a scratch, a pit, a tool mark, a difference in gloss. Define appearance criteria, with reference parts, lighting and an observation distance, because visual inspection is subjective.

02

Precision and micro-engineering

Movements and small mechanisms call for tolerances of a few microns to a few hundredths of a millimetre on parts a few millimetres across, in brass, steel or nickel silver. A metrology room and temperature-stable workshops make the difference.

03

Nickel restriction

Articles in prolonged contact with the skin (straps, cases, jewellery, buckles) are subject to the nickel release limit in Annex XVII of the REACH Regulation, verified to the EN 1811 standard. Tell the workshop about finishes and plating.

04

Precious metals

Items in gold, silver or platinum fall under hallmarking regulations (in France, the “garantie” system): legal fineness standards (750‰ for 18-carat gold, 925‰ for silver) and hallmarks. Check that the workshop works with these metals, weighs and tracks the materials entrusted to it and recovers the scrap.

05

Confidentiality and counterfeiting

A non-disclosure agreement before any drawing is sent, limited file sharing, tracking of rejected parts, return or destruction of tooling at the end of the project: these precautions are common and legitimate.

Typical parts and sub-assemblies

  • Watch cases, middle cases, case backs and bezels
  • Crowns, pushers, screws and small turned shafts
  • Hands, applied indices and dials (fine cutting, engraving)
  • Bracelet links and clasps
  • Mounts, claws and jewellery parts, models and cast parts
  • Buckles, fittings, rivets and clasps for leather goods
  • Metal caps and covers for perfume bottles
  • Parts for gift boxes, displays and shop fittings
  • Polishing, engraving and stone-setting tooling

Skills involved

Each skill has its own detailed page: services, materials, price factors.

All areas of expertise

CNC machining

Micro-machining and precision milling of cases, middle cases and movement parts, in stainless steel, titanium, brass or precious metals.

Surface treatment

Polishing, satin finishing, fine blasting, electroplating (gold plating, rhodium plating) and PVD coatings: the finish creates the perceived value. Specify colours, thicknesses and durability tests.

Sheet metalwork & cutting

Fine laser cutting and engraving of small flat parts: hands, plates, applied indices, metal labels.

3D printing

Resin models for lost-wax casting, appearance prototypes and presentation models. Castable resins are an asset in jewellery.

Inspection & metrology

Non-contact dimensional inspection, under a microscope or in a metrology room, and appearance inspection to criteria defined with you.

Prototyping

Models and functional prototypes of cases, mechanisms and jewellery, to validate shape, ergonomics and assembly before production.

Materials

Stainless steel 316L, widely used for cases and braceletsTitanium (grades 2 and 5), light and strongBrass, nickel silver and bronze for movements, buckles and fittingsGold, silver and platinum for jewellery and precious itemsAnodised aluminium for accessories and decorative elementsZamak and casting brass for leather-goods accessories

Tips for your quote request

Post a request
  • Describe the appearance you expect with a sample part, photos and a gloss reference (mirror polish, satin, brushed): words alone leave too much room for interpretation.
  • Define the visual acceptance criteria (tolerated defects, visible areas, lighting) and have a reference part approved before the production run.
  • State the exact material and its fineness, the plating (type, thickness, colour) and the durability tests expected.
  • Specify the constraints for skin contact (nickel) and the supporting documents you expect.
  • Ask for a non-disclosure agreement before sending drawings; describe the requirement publicly with no brand name or detailed drawing.
  • Plan the packaging: protection of finished surfaces, individual pouches, labelling. A scratch in transit costs more than the packaging.

Finishes: the stage that creates perceived value

In watchmaking as in jewellery or leather goods, it is the finish that distinguishes an ordinary part from a luxury one. Each process has its own look and constraints, to be defined with the workshop before launching the run.

FinishLookPoint to watch
PolishingGlossy, mirror effectRounds the edges and removes material
Satin finishing, brushingDirectional mattGrain direction and matching between adjacent parts
Fine blastingUniform mattType and grain size of the media
ElectroplatingGold plating, rhodium plating, other platingsThickness, possible nickel, wear resistance
PVD coatingDurable, hard coloursSurface preparation, adhesion

One point comes up constantly: finishes change dimensions. A coating adds a few microns, polishing removes some. State whether the tolerance applies before or after treatment. To compare looks and processes, see the guide to surface treatment of metals and the surface treatment page. Roughness can be checked with the roughness tool, but the final appearance is judged by eye, hence the value of a reference part.

A single part can also receive several finishes, for example a satin flank and a polished bevel: this requires separate operations and protection between them, to be allowed for in the quote.

Small batches, prototypes and inspection: working with a workshop

Luxury works in small quantities, by collection and in limited editions. Workshops in the sector therefore accept small batches and prototypes, but their schedules follow launch seasons: announce your deadlines early. For a new model, go through an appearance prototype, then a jointly approved first article, before launching the run. The guide to dimensional inspection and the first article explains how to document it.

Confidentiality is settled before the file is sent: a non-disclosure agreement, sharing limited to the files that are needed and a clear rule for rejects and tooling. An agreement does not replace the legal protection of your creations (designs, patent), which should be handled with an intellectual property adviser.

Also ask how the workshop protects parts between operations: a polished part passed from hand to hand gets scratched, and rework often costs far more than careful packing, especially on a small batch.

On Meaflow, you post your requirement for free, without naming a brand, and you talk by message with interested workshops before sharing the full file. Start by searching for workshops in Bourgogne-Franche-Comté or Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, then post your request.

Frequently asked questions

A question not answered here? Visit the help centre or write to us.

Can a workshop work with gold or silver?

Some jewellery or micro-engineering workshops do, but not all. Precious metal is weighed, tracked and recovered, which requires dedicated equipment for dust and scrap. Specify the metals, fineness and quantities, and ask the workshop how it ensures traceability.

How do I keep my models confidential?

Describe the requirement publicly without sensitive detail, then share the full file by message after a non-disclosure agreement. Limit the files to what is necessary and ask for rejects and files to be destroyed or returned at the end of the project. An agreement does not replace protection by design registration or patent.

What tolerance can I expect in micro-engineering?

On targeted dimensions of small parts, specialist workshops hold a few microns to a few hundredths of a millimetre, with suitable inspection and a stable environment. This level has a cost: reserve it for functional dimensions, such as bearing seats, pivots and clearances, and keep a wider general tolerance elsewhere.

Is nickel a problem for a part in contact with the skin?

It is regulated by the REACH Regulation (Annex XVII): nickel release is limited for articles in prolonged contact with the skin, and is verified to the EN 1811 standard. The choice of material and plating makes it possible to comply; if in doubt, a test to that standard settles the matter.

Guides to go further

All guides

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